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If you’ve ever come across a piece of Mokume gane jewelry, it likely wasn’t a sight swiftly forgotten. This alluring type of metalwork possesses an undulating, arresting appearance incorporating interesting designs and patterns that sets it apart from the classic looks of gold, silver and platinum. As a result, the technique has become quite popular as the choice for those looking for a distinctive and one-of-a-kind look, especially for wedding bands.
Mokume gane is a type of mixed-metal laminate in which soft metallic elements and alloys combine to create a distinctly one-of-a-kind look. When the metals are melted down, they create liquid phase diffusion bonds that never totally melt. The Mokume artist then twists and rolls the metal to develop the characteristic look of organic patterns and designs. Because of the numerous ways there are to combine the metals and the different and individual methods each artisan employs, you can be certain that no two jewelry pieces will ever be the same. So, you’re assured of ending up with a truly one of a kind piece of fine jewelry.
Mokume gane has been called kasumi-uchi, translating to “cloud metal” and itame-gane, translating to “wood-grain metal.” These translations are fitting, as the nearly endless varieties created by this technique are as varied as the clouds themselves. While Jewelry is currently the most common product created with this process this day, it did not begin out that way.
The process has its roots in 17th century Japan. Mokume gane artists made their living producing elaborate sword fittings for samurai, a very noble and honored craft. But when weapon modernization hit Japan, there was much less call for swords as weapons, so these artists had to find another way to employ their craft. Their answer was to design ornamental pieces as a alternative. Over the years, gold, copper silver, shakudo, shibuichi, and kuromido were utilised, while modern Mokume gane techniques use such metals as titanium, platinum, iron, brass, bronze, sterling and nickel silver and assorted colors of karat gold.
This metal working technique is fairly complicated, and only expert artisans can confidently ply the trade. It takes a long time to learn and master the technique. Commonly the modern artisan will use customized devices to laminate Mokume. After a process of heating and clamping layers of metals, a billet is formed. A billet is simply a block of metal. This billet is then forged, rolled and otherwise modified to come up with the patterns.
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